Peonies can be a wonderful addition to your landscape, but when they
start to bud, you may be appalled to discover they're covered with
ants. Various wives' tales have attempted to account for this odd
phenomenon, including one that alleged the ants were responsible in
some mysterious way for the buds opening into flowers. But in fact,
the explanation is pretty straightforward: Peony buds secrete a
super-sweet substance that ants find tasty.
HORNWORM PREVENTION
If you plan to grow peppers and tomatoes in this year's vegetable garden, you must face the possibility that your beautiful, thriving crop could be razed by a day or two of feasting by voracious hornworms. There are various ways to combat these striped monsters, including spraying the plants with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis). And if nature's in your corner, you'll notice little white egg pouches along the backs of some worms. These are the cocoons of parasitic wasps, and you'll want to leave them alone. The larvae that emerge from the cocoons will kill the worms and then grow into beneficial predators. But the most reliable way to deal with hornworms is to pick them off and destroy them. And here's a bonus suggestion: Grow some dill near your tomato and pepper beds. Hornworms love dill, and they're far easier to spot on dill plants, making your search-and-destroy missions more successful.
AFTER THOSE SPRING BLOOMS FADE
That first display of spring-blooming bulbs, like daffodils and tulips, is always a welcome--and often dazzling--sight. However, before long, the flowers start to fade and you may be tempted to cut back the leftover foliage. In a word--don't. Not if you want the bulbs to store food for another display next spring. In order to produce the food necessary for the following year's blooms, bulbs need eight weeks of leaf growth. Wait until you see the foliage turn yellow and start to flop over before you cut it. And by the way, some folks have been known to bundle or braid clumps of foliage to keep them tidy while they ripen. Again, this is not a good idea. Doing so cuts down on the air circulation and sunlight that the plant needs.
NATURALIZE!
Have you ever seen daffodils or daylilies advertised as good "for naturalizing" and wondered what exactly the term refers to? Basically, naturalizing is letting nature take its course, allowing flowers to multiply and spread like wildflowers. The effect can be very appealing, as masses of flowers dot your landscape in a less formal and more--well, natural--way. The best bulbs for naturalizing are those that don't mind a little competition from grasses and other plants. They should also be vigorous growers that do well in your area. Typical candidates are narcissus (daffodils), daylily, anemone, glory-of-the-snow, grape hyacinth, bulbous iris, and snowdrops.
DOUBLE HARVEST: EVER-BEARING RASPBERRIES
One of the most rewarding fruits you can grow is the raspberry--and these days, there's a multitude of types to choose from. If you want to extend your harvest, you can grow several varieties that ripen at different times--or you might consider going with an "ever-bearing" variety. Despite what the name suggests, ever-bearing raspberries don't produce continuously. Instead, they produce one crop around July on second-year canes. Then, they deliver another crop in the fall, usually around September, on the tips of the new canes produced that season. If you want, you can cut back the canes after the fall harvest. This will prevent the early crop the following season but should give you a whopping September crop. You'll find both yellow and red ever-bearing raspberries available. One good source of raspberries--as well as a huge selection of other fruits and nut trees--is Miller Nurseries, in Canandaigua, New York. Its Web address is http://www.millernurseries.com
Do you have a good gardening tip for other Kingstonians? Email us!